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Old December 19th, 2013, 02:21   #16
MatthewRyan
 
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Sudbury
My mistake crack the frame/body around the body pins. Sorry about that. That's just what I've been told. Any veteran MP7 owners advice would be much appreciated.
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Old December 19th, 2013, 08:33   #17
MultipleParadox
 
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St-Hubert, Qc
I have yet to install mine but the only way I could see the body crack due to the Npas is having people abuse said Npas by opening it all the way and increase the output way too much for the gun to handle

If that's the case, it's not an Npas problem but more of a lack of common sense
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Old December 19th, 2013, 15:31   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatthewRyan View Post
My mistake crack the frame/body around the body pins. Sorry about that. That's just what I've been told. Any veteran MP7 owners advice would be much appreciated.
Also curious, I have seen this happen to a friends KWA MP7. One of the UA guys also had this problem,happening multiple times.

MP7 still functions fine, it just has a big crack along the rear body pins.

Both with NPAS, firing under 350.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 21:13   #19
LongStone
 
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pretty sure Joe @ UA told me the cracks in his frame were from using the CQB bolt kit (until they changed the spring, apparently newer versions have a stronger recoil spring to alleviate this) because it was redirecting more gas into the recoil. the NPAS isn't going to function the same, its only shutting off the gas flow to the barrel early "not redirecting the excess", once the bolt cycles back (with the same amount of pressure) it will disengage the outflow valve on the mag
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Old January 7th, 2014, 10:04   #20
m102404
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My findings are a bit dated...but may still be worth consideration:
1. Lowering FPS
- the main functional difference between the "CQB" bolt and the stock KWA is that the CQB bolt runs with the Japanese non-fluted float valve in the nozzle. So if you want a lower powered setup and want to leave it that way, you can get the float valve (take one from another gun or find/order it for a couple of bucks, or make one) and swap out your existing valve. It is nice to have the whole unit to do a simple drop in between lower power and full power though. Just an option.
- The RATECH NPAS was (maybe still is) and POS. It drops the FPS to way below 300fps and nearly chokes the gun off. The adjustment "tool" is poorly fitted to the adjustment part of the valve. Not worth the money.
- Propane/Green gas is temperature sensitive...so having a chrony handy to check FPS is really the only way to know what you're shooting. That's inherent in all gas guns though.

2. Gas cycles
- the way GBB guns (and the MP7 too) works is that gas continues to flow into the nozzle causing it to do the "recoil" cycle until the bolt trips the gas disconnect nub in the body/trigger mech assembly. So unless the bolt is getting hung up or retarded in its rearward path it's not going to dump "more" gas with a CQB bolt vs. regular bolt *. * if one bolt weighs significantly less than another they'll accelerate at different rates and carry different amounts of momentum though. If a GBB bolt is impacting too hard then you can do a couple of different things.
- lighten the bolt to reduce the impact...not really recommended, and depending on the bolt it may unduly weaken it.
- buffer the impact...i.e. use rubber/material to cuishion the blow
- use a stronger recoil spring...* however, using are really hard spring may have the undesired effect of unwanted amounts of impact in the forward direction. Also, the more elapsed time it takes to get the bolt to the point where it hits the gas disconnect the more gas will be used.
* personally never had the body crack back there on the MP7's I've seen/had/used...so not a concern for me.

3. Sling options
- the rail mounted sling clips work great. I run two on mine so I can do a (very compact) two point, or a single point. I just find sometimes that the sling over the shoulder 2 point is more comfy for extended periods vs. the hanging weight of a 1 point.
- if you're using a rail mounted clip on...check that your top rail is screwed on tight. The top rail is screwed into the body top with tiny little screws. That's another reason I use a second mount point on my front RIS...to take some of the weight off of one point and spread the load.
- if you take a length of paracord (or even knock off paracord) and strip out the inner threads, the sheath of the cord makes for a very nice intermediary look that you can then tie off to the gun body loops (both front and back if you want).

4. Broken bits
From what I've seen...these are the common things that break on these models
- sling loops...because it's a fair bit of weight (with mag in) to hang from a small bit of plastic. Or as said because guys clip on directly and any metal-to-plastic contact is going to wear out the plastic
- front handles...not a lot of material underneath the handle.
- rear pins...mostly because they were jammed in improperly lined up
- tiny side screws that hold the front nozzle retaining block in the bolt...mostly because someone has gone Hulk on tightening them
- factory hopup rubbers...because they soak up oil like a sponge
...other than that the ones I've had...and currently have...run like tanks and just continue to work and work and work.

5. "Upgrades"
- I prefer the AG can because it fits up really nicely with it's flash hider and doesn't wobble
- I like the A+ rubber...nineball is good too
- I like the ready fighter nozzles...zero issues after much use
- I prefer to play higher FPS games since the stock float valve works nicely when the gas system is unrestricted
- A high mounted Micro T1 works really well for me and doesn't make the setup top heavy
- the front RIS handguard is nice...I made my own out of a top M4 RIS cover, shortly before the clone ones became available of ~$20.
- the clip for the front endcap on one of mine broke...and I just crazy glued it into place. Zero negative effects of doing so since it all comes out of the back of the body anyways when you need to work on it.
- if you sharpen the detent...and deepen the notches of the hopup adjustment rod/flange/whatever...then your hopup ajdustment tends to stay in place. (Also...pressing it all together firmly when reassembling works ok too for most of them).
- take care when loading mags...if you're dumping BBs in and don't get them "double stacked" nicely it may hang up. Sounds like common sense but loading these mags are a pain in the ass sometimes.

All in all...one of the most reliable gas based "rifle" platforms I've used (probably since it's an oversized pistol). Suitable for CQB to general field usage.

Last edited by m102404; January 7th, 2014 at 10:06..
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