[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Leang

For aesthetics, I'm trying to achieve something very similar to the photo you have in post 33. The slide will be stock black plastic, but I'd like the bushing and the barrels to be a matching silver or stainless steel. It looks like there are possibly 4 or 5 pieces I'll need to get. I colored them in blue here:



To be honest, the only parts I know the names for are the outer barrel and the inner TK Twist Barrel.

The other parts you're looking at (coloured blue) are:

GM4-3 - Barrel Bushing
GM4-4 - Barrel Bushing Insert (this item does not exist for real steel.)
GM4-22 - Outer Barrel
GM4-23 - Inner Barrel
GM4-31 - Spring Plug

Regarding GM4-4, this item is ONLY found in the Marui bushings. You won't find many aftermarket barrel bushings that will require this insert.

Originally Posted by Leang

1. Without considering upgrading to a better frame, would upgrading any of the internals yield good results?

Yes, of course. Different components do different things. Upgrading to a better frame will give you a higher precision fit with the slide and also allow for a more solid lockup with the barrel. If the connection between the slide and the frame is precise and fit well, then the positioning of the front and rear sights versus your hand (which hold the grip which is connected to the frame) will be more consistent on each shot. You'll be less likely to have to search for the dots again for a follow up shot. Your hand will more likely be in the right place.

Also, a higher quality frame will have a smoother finish... this would lead to faster slide cycling speed as well as less resistance required to move the slide, and thus, less gas consumption.

Finally, some aftermarket frames have extra features, such as monolithic rails or overall greater strength to resist the strike of steel hammers under heavy springs.


What I'm saying is, that each component has its own purpose. Different brands out there will have different features, and even some brands have multiple products of the same item that do different things.

The frame is overall not an absolutely required item to be upgraded. MOST of the time, it is cosmetic and left as the last upgrade, as it is the single most expensive item to upgrade on the pistol.

Originally Posted by Leang

2. I've read that the weight is concentrated on the grip and magazine end. I'm hoping that the parts I'm obtaining for the silver tip will help even it out a little, but I'm not expecting it to make that much of a weight difference. Any tips to increase balance and pointability?

For MEU's, yes. If you want it in silver, it's highly recommended to go with stainless steel components. It looks like you've picked out all the right parts. A metal slide would also help.
Beyond that, it's mostly practice and training. If you're practicing drawing an obscenely unbalanced pistol 5000 times a day, guess what you'll be very proficient at? That's right, drawing and pointing that unbalanced gun consistently and accurately every time.
For other users who either switch between pistol platforms (ie single stack versus double stack), or are using the airsoft as a practice piece for use with real steel, that's when you'll want to balance it out and get it more consistent with what you're used to.
If this piece is your only piece, then really... it doesn't matter. And as far as MOST airsofters goes, this really is a non-issue.

Ultimately, the parts you've picked out are the biggest step to bringing weight forward... plus a metal slide.

Originally Posted by Leang

3. Would the MEU count as a 5.1?

No, they are 5". Hi-Capa's are slightly longer, hence, 5.1. Generally, the number refers to the barrel length (outer.) However, as far as Tokyo Marui is concerned, the number refers to a model name, and is ALSO indicative of the barrel length. For example, the Desert Warrior is also a 4.3" long outer barrel, but is technically a single stack. There are also various 4.3 and 5.1 (specifically named) models, such as the 4.3 Xtreme, 4.3 Dual Stainless, and 5.1 Stainless.

The M1911A1 does NOT have a 1,911" long outer barrel.

Originally Posted by Leang

4. How efficient are the stock internals in terms of efficient gas usage? Anything I should replace off the bat?

For a Marui? Perfectly fine. Things start going weird if you are not assembling things properly or rolling around in mud and dust without cleaning the system. OUT OF THE BOX, a Marui is PERFECTLY balanced and nothing needs replacing "right off the bat." The moment you upgrade certain items, that's when you'll need to replace things right off the bat.

FOR EXAMPLE:
If you upgrade to a metal slide, it is highly recommended to also upgrade:
- Outer barrel (or the chamber will get chewed up by the slide)
- Recoil Spring (or slide return will be sluggish due to the increased weight)
- Nozzle (for Marui, it is likely to crack under a heavier slide, propane use and an enhanced recoil spring.)

If you upgrade to a metal outer barrel, it is highly recommended to also upgrade:
- Slide (or the impact lugs will get completely mauled by the metal chamber of the outer barrel.) This leads to the above necessary components as well: recoil spring, nozzle, etc.
The EXCEPTION to this, is if you find a metal outer barrel that is non-tilting and never contacts the slide, ie: ILLusion Kinetics metal outer barrels. Only barrels of this type will keep a plastic slide lasting a long long time.

Originally Posted by Leang

5. I'm a bit bummed that the Novak sites don't have the white dots to help aim. Anyone have thoughts on the Novak stock sites? This is ultimately a preference thing of course, but I'd still like to see how you guys personally feel about this.

I personally don't like the lack of dot either, but I've resorted to stick on high visibility dots in a "Heinie 8" position.

Originally Posted by Leang

Sorry, I should have elaborated. I meant internals that could be upgraded without having the need of a reinforced frame. But you say that a stock frame can handle pretty highly upgraded internals?

Perfectly fine, unless you're running some insane gas at unregulated 2500psi.
Propane exerts around 140psi.

I've seen guns using stock Marui frames pushing unregulated CO2 at around 800psi and they've been running fine. There are other components that would break first (such as the plastic slide.)

Originally Posted by Leang

As for the slide, I've read that, over time, a metal slide will wear out the stock frame where they rub. Any truth to that?

You rub ANYTHING frequently over time, and it will wear down. Start using your thumb to rub the same spot on your desk 2 hours a day, every day for the next 5 years, and tell me what happens to that spot on your desk. Even a metal desk will experience some level of erosion.

Don't worry about it now. Worry about it when the time comes, chances are you won't care by then or you would've gone on to building 20 more pistols and have long sold that other one (wait... that sounds like my story...)

Originally Posted by Leang

Ah, so the 1911 and Hi-capas are mutually exclusive. But Hi-capas are 2011s.

Yes.... sort of. They're both same family, so they can share a lot of components. This applies to both airsoft as well as real steel.