M4 battery wiring
 

I currently have an m4 with the battery wires on the front inside the handguard. If I will be installing a cranestock, could I just use this same wires and route it at the buffer tube or will I need to change it to a switch assembly for rear stock?

The wires might not be long enough to reach to the back. Since you intend on doing it already it won't hurt to open it up and try. If it's too short you don't have to change the whole switch, just the wires. You can splice additional wire into it if you know how to solder. Buying wire and doing it yourself is much cheaper than buying a whole new switch assembly.

Well what I did was I cut the wires, and connected new wires and a connector, I slid it through the right side of the the reciever and under the rear pin. It works well, not much stuffing, but it does keep the top reciever in and fits well.

Simple: Just a matter of opening up the mech, reversing the positive wire to the back of the mech, cut to length. Run the negative wire down the back of the mech in the same wire track as the positive will go, reasemble mech, attach your wiring harness for the crane stock and good to go. Solder each connection properly and insulate with some heat shrink tubing from Ctire.

Thanks for you inputs! So if ever I am to add a wire, it should be of the same wire gauge?

If you're going to open the mechbox...and while it's all apart to rewire, it's a great time to do it...you might as well solder on complete new wire vs. splicing in bits and pieces. If you're all setup...it take about 5min to run in new wiring...and then it's all pretty instead of hacked together.

The motor connectors are .110", get them at Canadian Tire in the automotive section. (I think it's .110"...it's the smallest ones with a red plastic case...just cut the casing off with a knife).

18AWG fits nicely, 16AWG will fit but if the shielding is thick it might be a tight squeeze.

You can run the wires out the front and around to the back...but that's not the "right" way to do it...

Rerouting them is very simple (google images until you find a good pic) and they come out nice and neat right at the rear.

If you're going to install a crane stock you might want a hand from someone who's done it before. Basically you have to ensure that you have enough room in between the stock tube and the receiver stud to fit the wires and you'll want the wires to end just past the end of the stock tube. You may be required to do some permanent modifications (i.e. cutting/grinding) to your receiver.

Hope that helps,

Tys

Pretty well detailed instructions came with my G&P crane stock.

I don't know wich brand you were planning on getting, but you'll have that if you get an G&P...

Or I'm sure you can find them on the net somewhere (I could scan you mine, but I think I tossed it out after installation...)