Systema Turbo Motor Gearing Issues
 

Hey all

so recently I picked up a Systema Turbo Motor for my echo 1 AK700. The gearbox has been sorbod, corrected for AOE, perfectly shimmed, and a DIY mosfet installed. Gun was running great with the stock motor but trigger response and ROF was only so so.

To make a long story short it ran good with the new motor but the mosfet would get extremely hot when using the gun on semi (after only a few shots). On full auto you could do sustained fire and it would be fine. Although the mosfet would get hot the battery and motor stayed cool. shortly after this the gears disintegrated in the gearbox. So I am searching for new gears that will possibly solve the problem with the heating. I don't think it had over a m120 spring but I could be wrong.

My question is what ratio gears should I go with?

Thanks!

Systema motors are some of the most poorly made motors available, along with G&P motors. If your FET is getting warm, check with a wattmeter and see how many amps you're drawing.

Its impossible to recommend you a gear ratio unless we know the setup you are putting it in. Battery, spring, motor TPA, and what your goals are with the setup. Stock ratio gears are 18:1.

I would chalk that up to the motor drawing too much amperage for the mosfet.
Systema tends to use REAL neodymium magnets in their motors, which cause it to draw a lot more amperage than other so called "high torque" motors.
I haven't seen a turbo myself yet, but their original and magnum motors were actually two of the BEST motors ever made for airsoft as far as the construction was concerned.
The only issue with the magnum was that they didn't insulate the end bell properly.

If you were running stock echo1 gears I'm not surprised they stripped. Any decent gears like lonex, shs or systema will work fine. Prometheus gears are too heavy for high reaction speed. And Siegetek gears will be indestructible.

just to eliminate the blatantly obvious, did you reshim it after getting the new motor?

new motor with a new pinion requires a new shim job. Pinion profiles change from one manufacturer to another so it's more than likely the shimming between the bevel and pinion was off.

Without using a wattmeter, you'll never know though since the gears blew up.

It was shimmed for the new motor. It had plenty or room for motor height adjustment so I don't think it was a problem with that. I will probably grab some new standard gears and a 110 spring and see how it does. I know the motor is 120 max so maybe the stock spring was more than that. I will also try hooking up my wattmeter and grabbing a reading. I just thought it was strange because everything stayed cool except the mosfet.

Any suggestions for a decent set of gears that wont break the bank?

Best budget gears are SHS. Avoid Lonex gears.

Although I agree in an effort to have the perfect setup, pinions aren't all made of cheese.
You can have only half the pinion engaged on the bevel gear, as long as the meshing is correct, it can last like that for years.
If it was a bevel/pinion engagement problem, it would have stripped the pinion, not the other gears.

ok new gears installed and the mosfet replaced to be 100% sure its not that. So where is the best place in the circuit to measure the watts?

anywhere