Good choice of sidearm indeed =P. What about the VSR 10 G SPEC? Or are you going for a more of the military type sniper rifle? ( 50. cal )

i think Ken priced it incorrectly $85 is WAY too much for a recoil rod. it functions the same as any aftermarket recoil rod/spring.

Would it be wise to buy a new barrel? Unfortunately the metal barrel and slide I think are the same size at the original. They have a different cut in it to on the top so it looks better so if I was to get a new barrel I'd have a big gap in the top of the gun.

not a big fan of the vsr. Im really looking towards an l96 of the ones ive seen so far. but yes am looking more military sniper. And thats only my first sidearm second will probably be a p226. But not sure which one is better tm or kjw???

Yeah personally if I was going get a sniper I'd diffently get a L96. I'd rather get a G&P SR-25 though but unfortunately there around 1000.00 dollars stock shooting about 380fps. I have no clue what would be better with out of the TM or KJW p226's. TM always has alot of upgrades for all there guns though, so if you were looking for upgrade-ability you'd want a TM. I've only ever been interested in Desert Eagles and Glocks.

No kidding! Add in the fact that every KSC Glock has pretty bad inner barrel wobble (like at least 1mm in each direction of play when the slide is locked forward)......... literally, putting a thicker O-ring or even just a few inches of black electrocution tape around the inner barrel a couple mm back from the O-ring groove will increase accuracy by roughly 75%, the tightbore just adds that little bit more.

$85 covers the kit, but still it's typically 007 overpriced (and yo ulinked Products, but didn't even check to see if it's In Stock). Buy from MadMax or airsoft armoury, enhanced recoil spring/guide is about $15, enhanced hammer spring (bitch to install unless experienced) is about $12............. hi flow valve not really needed unless you are looking to get it up to AEG field limits............. regulator.......... sounds to me like it's a negative to the hi flow valve's positive............ why would you want to increase the gas flow only to have it regulated, unless it's to a consistant level all the time.......... useless.

so after reading all of this, i gather that i should use .3 or higher. that being said, i have two questions:

1. i have only found metal bbs that are heavier than .3. where can i find bbs that are heavier than .3 that are not aluminum or graphite coated?

2. are the KSC perfect bbs suitable to use in a 6.01mm TB inner barrel?

The thing is, if i cant find anything heavier than the .3, i will just use that weight as the seem to have more advantages than the .28s. Its too bad BB bastard doesn't sell anything higher than .28 (Are BB bastard BB's suitable to use in a 6.01 TB inner barrel?)

Only metal BBs I've seen for sale anywhere (ok, besides the 0.88g steel BBs)are solid aluminum, and have only seen one weight for them, 0.29g. All others are graphite coated plastic compound. Best to wash the graphite off using cola for 20mins, then in a wool sock in numerous cycles of the washing machine with other clothes, rubbing the sock between washes, test random BBs on light coloured cloth by rubbing to see if any grey marks remain;


I haven't read anything bad about those KSC BBs, go for them. My experience, the more precise the BB only matters within say 100ft, after that hop up, varying airpressure and side wind makes precision BBs act like shitting Straights, the go where they want to. You just point and fire the BB, after 100ft Mother Nature and physics takes over and decides a kill or not. After that, it's up to the player to give you the kill or not (sucks being a sniper sometimes, seen BBs bounce off guys, they ignore and keep firing................ I've made it a point that every BB I hit a guy with is a kill count number for me, doesn't matter if he doesn't call it, just shoot him again and add to your kill count. Your job as a sniper is to plant a BB on a guy, that is it, a kill for you if you witness it. Great fun later to approach the guy around his friends/teammates and say "Man, it was awesome sniping you with 3 BBs, thanks for the kills!" and see if he says "I didn't get hit, what are you talking about?" then say, "Ya, I pegged you in the right mag pouch on your chest twice then once in the stomach from 150ft away, saw every one, heard them too, but you didn't call hit at all even though you looked down to where they hit each time, they were still kills for me regardless." and watch him shrink into nothingness around his peers. :D

Ya, it sucks to shoot someone and not be able to yell at them they are hit without exposing where your location is. And yes, the above is my experience, fuck the bastards later on.

so long story short, ill stick with KSC Perfect .3 BBs and hook my M14 (after i buy it) up with a 6.01mm IB. Thanks for the informative comments btw.

Don't go 6.01.

You'll have jamming issues.. And the M14 isn't the easist gun to take down and clear in the field.

Go with a 6.03... The .02mm doesn't make THAT big of a difference.

FWIW I've been using PHX Tactical .28s in my Sun Project M16 for the past while and I swear by them. My gun's not a sniper rifle by any stretch
(14.5" barrel), but I can consistently hit a man-sized target with open sights at 50 yards with them, no problem. Even with my fixed hop-up range is not an issue, they just float nice and straight.

My KJM700 fires at about 370 on duster with .30s. Ive seen a couple go up in the age verified section, but you can maybe grab A&A or 007 to import you one as well. On a warm or hot day, the KJ M700 fires way to hot on propane. So dusters a good bet if you want that lower fps area. But well thats with .30s, and I know you said .20s, but just another option out there for you.

Hey you could try a m14 if you want to. I'd suggest trying a few out at games if possible. As you said before though you really like the look of the L96 so if you don't like any others wait awhile and get the L96.

As long as he doesn't use shitty ammo and he cleans his inner barrel every once in a while, his tightbore won't jam at all. Literally, tightbores jamming is a partial myth. Think about the fact that the BEST of the best BBs out there measure in around 5.96mm, he'll still have 0.05mm clearance. I've argued with stubborn people about this myth, and if yo usearched the entire ASC forum for "tightbore jamming" you'll find a half dozen or so threads that have that in it, and largely it's people asking about a tightbore that won't jam, or people saying they have a tightbore and it hasn't jammed. Aka: Tightbores don't jam when maintained by minimum maintainance standards. If it's not maintained at all................

BTW, 99% of jams are because the hop up rubber not being maintained, it's not because of the tightbore (unless it's sand, bad maintainance regime, or shitty ammo like Walmart 0.12g BBs. Ok, we've found some BB Bastard BBs that look like brains, but if you check your ammo after you buy it for defects........)

Nutshell, tightbores don't jam. BBs and shit in tightbores jams.